Superstar Cheeses of 2019
What cheeses topped the charts at American cheese counters this year? For answers, I polled a few independent retailers around the country about their biggest hits of the past 12 months. I wanted to hear about newcomers that took off, sleeper hits that surpassed expectations and any under-performers that, for whatever reason, finally got traction.
Benjamin Roberts
France 44
Minneapolis, MN
Cheese superstar: Wrångebäck
Sweden/raw cow’s milk
“We were the first retailer in the USA to stock this cheese. It went through some rejiggering a year or so ago and has returned in amazing form. Maybe it’s because there are a lot of folks with Swedish heritage here, but probably it’s because of the accessible creamy texture and touch of sweetness. It’s been consistently delicious all year and one of the easiest sells in a case packed with alpine-style cheeses.”
Joe Schwab
Truffle Cheese Shop
Denver, CO
Cheese superstar: Adarré
France/goat’s and sheep’s milk
“I think the idea of a goat and sheep mixed-milk cheese with such an approachable flavor really resonates, and everything from (affineur) Rodolphe Le Meunier is stellar. On a personal note, I have been really into the cheeses from Cultivo in Madrid. Their Mahón Semi Curado has been an incredible find.”
Laura Downey
Fairfield Cheese Shop and Greenwich Cheese Shop
Fairfield and Greenwich, CT|
Cheese superstar: Jasper Hill Farm Alpha Tolman.
Vermont/raw cow’s milk
“We have carried Alpha Tolman since Jasper Hill started making it. In the beginning, when it sat in our case next to European classics like Comté or Gruyère, customers always chose the European cheese. The flavor just did not hit them in the same way. Despite that, we persevered and continued to try to get customers on board. Then this past year, it happened. We began receiving wheels that were precisely what consumers wanted. They were savory, a bit beefy and full of brown-butter and caramelized-onion notes. Our sales are almost three times last year. It is selling as well as Challerhocker, which says a lot.”
The cheese customers are finally "getting": Kirkham's Lancashire
England/raw cow’s milk
Kirkham's Lancashire is everything we want to support: raw, farmstead and tied to the terroir. But it has never been an easy sell. It seems the subtleties are difficult for most Americans to appreciate, and the texture is confusing to them. That butter crumble and yogurty tang are not familiar. A few years ago, we began opening the wheels with knives as opposed to wires. This creates a better crumble and highlights the texture. We keep a hunk on top of the cheese case and sample it at room temperature. Our Fairfield customers are now asking for it, and when we offer a taste to the uninitiated, they are sold.
Kendall Antonelli
Antonelli’s
Austin, TX
Best seller: Milton Creamery Flory’s Truckle
Iowa/cow’s milk Cheddar
Top revenue: Nettle Meadow Kunik
New York/goat’s and cow’s milk triple-cream
“This has been in our top three for the last three years.”
New hit: Alemar Blue Earth
Minnesota/cow’s milk Brie style
“Another home run for this cheesemaker. Our mongers and customers just can't get enough.”
Michael Graham
C’est Cheese
Santa Barbara, CA
Cheese superstar: Tomme Brulée
France/sheep’s milk
“We brought this in a few months ago on a lark, and people got super excited about it.”
Cheese superstar: Brebirousse d’Argental
France/sheep’s milk
“Utterly addictive. Everyone loves it. It’s not too strong for people who are not quite as adventurous, and it’s not too mild for people who prefer stronger flavors.”