Janet Fletcher

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Something Old, Something New

In my never-ending hunt for new cheeses, I sometimes overlook old favorites. Manouri, the Greek sheep cheese, is definitely one of those. I hadn’t bought it in a long time, but by chance I brought some home the same week a gift bottle of olio nuovo showed up. Now there’s a love match. This moist, mild, creamy cheese is always one of the best buys at the cheese counter, and it soars with a splash of peppery just-pressed olive oil. Make some toast. Toss a salad. Time for lunch.

Half and half: Grated manouri and pecorino romano

Think of manouri as a sort of Greek cream cheese, although it’s typically more sliceable than spreadable. I serve it with Middle Eastern mezze like hummus, baba ghanoush, carrots in yogurt and cooked greens. I like to shave it into salads with sliced fennel and roasted beets or orange segments. I grate it and mix it fifty-fifty with pecorino romano for topping pasta.

Manouri is similar to ricotta salata but softer, less sheepy and less salty. I’ve written about it in Planet Cheese before, so you can find more background here. Whole Foods always seems to have it, and you can find it in markets that cater to a Greek or Middle Eastern clientele.

January is peak season for olio nuovo from California and Europe, the just-pressed, unfiltered olive oil from the late-autumn harvest. Olio nuovo (“new oil”) is bottled right after pressing, without settling out the solids, so you need to finish the bottle before any sediment starts to ferment. Don’t be stingy. Drizzle it generously over manouri with crumbled oregano and strips of citrus zest and serve with warm olives.


Time for Cheese O’Clock!

Photo: Jennifer Barry

It’s a cheese party! Please join me and fellow cheese expert Laura Werlin for Cheese O’Clock, a four-week series of you-are-almost-there virtual tastings. Zoom registration is free, but we encourage you to order each week’s unique cheese collection and wines to taste along with us and our featured guests.

Cheese O'Clock outdid itself. The quality of the product was world class stunning and we loved the evening.
Ray and Diane A.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and passion in such an engaging, accessible and magical way.
Suzy F.

Thursday, February 18
“Europe Off the Beaten Path” with WillaKenzie Estate
All details here

Thursday, February 25
“Italian All Stars” with Captûre Wines and Tenuta di Arceno
All details here

Thursday, March 4
“Wonder Women of American Cheese” with Cambria Winery
All details here

Thursday, March 11
“Aged to Perfection” with Galerie Wines
All details here