I haven’t been in a pub in 18 months and am getting cranky about it. I want to sit at a counter and have someone serve me a beer. Maybe after my booster shot. In the meantime, I brought the pub to me. I had a nice wedge of Keen’s Cheddar (found it at Whole Foods) in the fridge and a fresh loaf of pain au levain. A neighbor had dropped off some heirloom eggs from her “girls.” And my husband’s latest batch of red onion pickles had cured the requisite week. I have no recollection of ever having had a ploughman’s lunch in a pub, but all the fixings were right in front of me.

A ploughman’s lunch is a cold midday meal that, presumably, a farmer could consume quickly, between chores. Cheese (typically Cheddar), country bread, pickled onions and beer are non- negotiable. Beyond that, common additions include hard-cooked eggs, sweet butter and apples. Some people add radishes, chutney or sliced ham. You shouldn’t have to cook anything but the eggs.

Speaking of which…I’ve boiled and peeled a million eggs in my career as a professional cook and food writer, but I only recently learned how to do it right. You will never struggle to peel a boiled egg again if you follow this method:

Bring the eggs to room temperature. (Otherwise, they may crack.) You can do this quickly by setting them in a bowl of tepid water. Put enough water in a saucepan to cover them, but don’t add the eggs yet. Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly so the water is not boiling vigorously, then carefully lower the eggs into the pot on a large spoon. Adjust the temperature so the water simmers gently and cook to desired doneness. For large eggs, I figure 6 minutes for a firm white and runny yolk. Transfer immediately to a bowl of ice water. Let the eggs cool thoroughly, then peel.

In next week’s Planet Cheese, look for a guide to some of the best domestic and imported Cheddars by style.

Doug’s Pickled Red Onions

Perfecting pickled red onions was one of Doug’s many pandemic projects. They are now a refrigerator staple. We add them to egg salad and tuna salad, panzanella, cucumber salad, pita sandwiches and Greek salad. They are crunchy and colorful and well-balanced between sweet and tart.

Ingredients

• ¾ cup white vinegar (nothing fancy; Heinz distilled vinegar works best)

• 1 ½ cups water

• 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar (to taste)

• 1 tablespoon sea salt

• 1 teaspoon peppercorns, preferably mixed (pink, green, white and black), slightly pounded

• 6 juniper berries, slightly pounded

• 1 large red onion, peeled and halved through the root end

Put the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, peppercorns and juniper berries in a 1-quart jar. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve.

Cut out the root end of the onion. Slice the onion halves from stem to root about 1/8 inch wide. Add the sliced onion to the brine. Put a non-reactive (non-metal) weight on top to keep the slices submerged. Refrigerate for 1 week before using. They should last for about a month.

Makes 1 quart

In Case You Missed It: