If you’re surprised that a university press has published a book on beer cheese, you’re probably not from Kentucky. The Bluegrass State takes beer cheese seriously. I didn’t even know what this popular pub snack was until I interviewed the book’s author, Garin Pirnia. Pirnia isn’t from Kentucky either, but she embraced the spicy spread soon after moving there. “Whereas pimento cheese screams ‘the South,’ beer cheese symbolizes Kentucky,” wrote Pirnia in The Beer Cheese Book (University of Kentucky Press).

Pirnia is a freelance writer whose main subjects are music, film and food. She grew up near Dayton, Ohio, but moved to L.A. to try to break into filmmaking. When those stars didn’t align, she relocated to Covington, Kentucky, where beer cheese needs no introduction.

For the uninitiated: Beer cheese can be thick or thin, but it’s always creamy. The base is typically grated Cheddar (or, gasp, cold pack cheese). Most renditions are spicy from cayenne, hot sauce or horseradish. Many people add onion or garlic powder, dry or prepared mustard or Worcestershire sauce. Some people melt everything together, then chill it, but I don’t get that at all. For dipping: pretzels, crackers, celery, carrots.

Garin Pirnia, what got you into beer cheese?

Pirnia: When I moved here 10 years ago, I had never heard of it. I was in a liquor store that sells party supplies, and they had this packaged beer cheese, so I bought it. I googled it and saw that I had missed that year’s Beer Cheese Festival. They have an amateur competition, so I started tinkering and thought, “Next year I’m going to enter my beer cheese.”

I didn’t win. Mine was a little too gourmet for them. But I wrote an article about my experience, and then I got an e-mail from the University of Kentucky Press saying, “Would you like to write a whole book on that?”

Luckily, my library had a lot of old Kentucky cookbooks because the thing about beer cheese is that it’s kind of a secret. People won’t tell you what kind of beer or cheese they put in. So I knew I had to eat as much as possible. I went to Lexington ten times and to Louisville. There’s a Beer Cheese Trail. I knew I had to immerse myself in this culture. It was very “method.”

I take it you’ve been to the festival by now?

I’ve been a judge twice. When I had to judge the amateur competition, I had to taste 17 samples. That was a little much for me.

What’s the difference between pub cheese and beer cheese?

Typically, pub cheese doesn’t have beer in it.

What’s the best beer to use in beer cheese?

Traditionally, it’s Bud Light or PBR, but with the craft beer boom, we have thousands of choices. I really like a porter; it makes a richer, smoky flavor. IPAs are used a lot. I sometimes use an amber. The type of beer does affect the taste, so experiment.

Hot or cold?

Beer cheese was invented as a cold spread. I don’t like it heated up. A lot of breweries do a warmed dip, but it loses all that good flavor. Beer cheese should always be cold.

Garin’s Beer Cheese

Adapted from The Beer Cheese Book by Garin Pirnia.

• 1 pound smoked Cheddar, grated

• ¼ pound Gouda, grated

• 2 tablespoons yellow or brown mustard seed, ground semifine in a mortar or spice grinder

• 1 shallot, minced

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• ½ cup hoppy beer (such as IPA)

• 2 tablespoons coffee stout

• 1 tablespoon bourbon

Put the cheeses in a food processor with the mustard, shallot and garlic. Blend well, then slowly add the two beers and the bourbon. Blend until smooth and creamy.

Makes about 3 cups.

Janet’s Beer Cheese

You can use chipotle Cheddar and omit the canned chipotle, but I like being able to control the heat. Choose white or orange Cheddar, as you like.

• 6 ounces sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (about 1-1/2 cups)

• 2 ounces natural cream cheese

• 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

• 1 small clove garlic, finely minced

• 3 green onions, thinly sliced

• About 3 tablespoons Oktoberfest beer or beer of your choice

• Canned chipotle chile en adobo, finely minced, to taste

Put the Cheddar, cream cheese, horseradish, garlic and two-thirds of the green onion in a food processor. Reserve the remaining green onion for garnish. Blend until well mixed, then add enough beer to make a creamy spread. You can make it as thick or thin as you like by adjusting the volume of beer. Add 1 tablespoon minced chipotle chile and blend, then taste and add more if you want the spread spicier. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with the reserved green onion.

You can make this spread a day ahead and refrigerate but bring to room temperature to serve.

Makes about 1-1/2 cups