The question at our house last week was how to revive our flagging interest in cauliflower. I’ve been gardening forever, but I still haven’t learned that when you plant a dozen cauliflower seedlings at once, they all mature at once. I wasn’t sure I could get another cauliflower risotto past my husband unless I changed it up. So I did. With a little digging online, I turned up a new method that produced the creamiest risotto I’ve ever made. The truffled pecorino I had in the fridge put it over the top. I knew I’d nailed it when Doug amped up his usual praise—from “this is good, hon” to “this is really good, hon.” I couldn’t agree more.

I’m chagrined to say I can no longer find the website with the clever risotto technique. I would love to give credit. The idea is that you boil (I prefer to steam) some of the cauliflower and then puree it with stock. This creamy broth produces an especially plush risotto, with roasted cauliflower on top for contrast.

I’m not a truffled cheese superfan, but adding truffled pecorino took this risotto from excellent to awesome. That earthy aroma perfumed the dish and persisted to the last bite. (But I eat fast.)

You’ll find innumerable truffled cheeses in stores at this time of year. My choice for this purpose, if you can find it, is Moliterno al Tartufo, a firm sheep’s milk cheese made in Sardinia and injected generously with black truffle. It’s a relatively recent creation from a family-owned creamery operating on the island for more than a century. I can’t wait to see what it does for butternut squash risotto, too.

Truffled Cauliflower Risotto

Look for an aged pecorino that is firm enough to grate. Moliterno al Tartufo is a good choice, if you can find it. I prefer Carnaroli to Arborio; it is more forgiving, with a longer grace period between underdone and overdone.

• 3/4 pound cauliflower florets

• 2-1/2 cups vegetable or chicken broth (if canned, use half broth, half water)

• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 1/2 small onion, minced

• 3/4 cup Carnaroli or Arborio rice

• 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

• 1/2 cup (about 1-1/2 ounces) coarsely grated aged pecorino with black truffle

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Put 1/2 pound of the florets in a steamer and steam over boiling water until tender, 5 to 10 minutes depending on their size. Blend the steamed florets in a blender with enough of the broth to make a smooth, creamy puree. Combine the puree with the remaining broth in a small saucepan, bring to a simmer and adjust the heat to keep the mixture just below a simmer.

Cut the remaining florets into bite-size pieces and toss with 2 teaspoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and arrange on a small baking sheet. If the florets have a flat (cut) side, put them flat side down. Bake until they are lightly browned and tender, about 20 minutes, turning them with tongs partway through.

While the florets bake, heat the butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir constantly until it is hot to the touch. Begin adding the hot broth about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring often and adding more broth when the previous addition has been absorbed. It should take 18 to 20 minutes for the rice to become al dente and absorb all or most of the broth. Season well with black pepper and taste for salt. Stir in the parsley, cover and remove from the heat. Let rest for about 2 minutes, then uncover and stir in the cheese.

Divide the risotto between 2 or 3 bowls. Top with the roasted florets and a few drops of extra virgin olive oil or olio nuovo. Serve immediately.

Serves 2 or 3