Janet Fletcher

View Original

Best Fresh Cheeses for Summer’s Dog Days

Whew, it’s been hot. And probably not for the last time this summer. Retailers are stocking up on mozzarella and burrata, of course, but I’m more tempted by other fresh cheeses—the creamy, fluffy, rindless types that I can slather on toast and top with roasted cherry tomatoes. Or sliced peaches. Or a flurry of snipped chives. Add a big salad and a cold brew and call it dinner. Maybe I’m just paying more attention, but it seems like there are more options in this fresh category than ever. I’ve chosen seven of my favorites that should carry you through the next heat wave and beyond.

Madame Loïk is a soft whipped cheese made by a large co-op in Brittany. There’s nothing artisan about it, but there’s nothing unsavory about the ingredient list, either. No stabilizers, no preservatives, no artificial anything. Just buttermilk, cream, skim milk, cultures and French sel de Guérande. It has a mellow crème fraiche taste, a whisper of salt and a plush texture that makes you think it has a million calories. In fact, because of the buttermilk, it’s relatively low in fat.

Super spreader: Nicasio Valley Foggy Morning

Foggy Morning from Nicasio Valley Cheese is a farmstead cow’s milk cheese that resembles fromage blanc, with a sour cream aroma and subtle tang. Pair it with tapenade or sun-dried tomato pesto and a heap of crostini for an easy hors d’oeuvre.

Snøfrisk, a dreamy spreadable goat cheese from Norway, is packed in its tub when just two or three days old. The color is snow white and the texture like whipped cream cheese—more a spread than a cheese. There’s no goaty aroma whatsoever. It just smells fresh. Stir a spoonful into pasta with tomato sauce.

Fresh Sheep Cheese from Green Dirt Farm (pictured above) has a bright, lemony, cultured flavor with no sheepy aftertaste. The texture is tender and less dense than most fresh chèvres, lighter and less sticky than cream cheese. When freshly packed it’s especially fluffy, so keep an eye on the date stamp. Many Whole Foods stock the 3.5-ounce tubs.

Pair with peaches: Good Culture cottage cheese

Good Culture Cottage Cheese is made with organic milk and contains live active cultures and no stabilizers like carrageenan or guar gum. The flavor is rich, buttery and mellow, with a buttermilk scent. The small curds are moist and tender, cloaked in a light, tangy cream dressing. (The low-fat version is drier and not much lower in calories; why bother?) I’m not a regular cottage cheese eater, but I reached the bottom of this pint tub in two days. Enjoy it with peaches and granola for breakfast, or for lunch on whole-grain toast with shaved cucumbers.

Spanish sheep log: Wooly Wooly

Wooly Wooly, a fresh sheep’s milk log from Spain, can replace fresh goat cheese in any recipe, like baked goat cheese salad. I marinate it in extra virgin olive oil with thyme, whole garlic cloves and thyme sprigs; it’s more buttery and a touch less tangy than most fresh chèvres. Packaged at 10 days old, it is firm enough to slice. When warmed slightly in the oven, the cheese has a custardy texture.

Laychee is a fluffy, tub-packed fresh cheese from Pennyroyal Farm, a small farmstead producer in California’s Anderson Valley. In spring and early summer, when the farm has sheep’s and goat’s milk, Laychee is a mixed-milk cheese; the rest of the year, its goat’s milk only. It has a lemony, cottage cheese-like aroma and the ideal texture for a bagel schmear. You may struggle to find this cheese outside of Northern California but the company does ship. Flesh out your order with some of Pennyroyal’s excellent aged wheels.