The strawberry farmstand near my house is in full swing right now, with berries so fragrant you can smell them from the parking lot. Fortunately, I know a dessert worthy of them. In French it’s a vacherin but I call it a macaroon torte: layers of crunchy almond meringues, whipped ricotta cream and juicy strawberries (or peaches in season). In just a few hours, the meringues soak up the juices and soften enough that you can cut neat slices. It’s one of the first desserts my husband ever made for me. (That list is short.) Doug brought a small collection of cookbooks to our marriage, and this recipe was in one of them. If he made it for other women before me, I don’t want to know.

The Cordon Bleu Cook Book by Dione Lucas was a bit of a surprise to discover among my husband’s possessions. The author was hardly a household name. An Englishwoman who taught French cooking classes in New York in the 1950s—Paula Wolfert was a student—she never achieved the fame that Julia Child, another Francophile, did just a few years later. But this recipe alone puts her in my culinary pantheon.

Almond Macaroon Torte with Strawberries and Ricotta Cream

My adaptation of Dione Lucas’s original, from The Cordon Bleu Cook Book, was developed for California’s Wine Institute. Lucas used sweetened whipped cream between the layers; I prefer the more flavorful ricotta cream. She folded the fruit into the cream; I keep the fruit separate and add some brandy because why not? The ground pistachio garnish is my California touch. A California late-harvest Riesling, Muscat or demi-sec sparkling wine would be an ideal companion. The torte lasts for about a day before it gets too soft. Serve half for dinner and enjoy the rest for a decadent breakfast the next day.

Use the freshest whole-milk ricotta you can find. Bellwether Farms Basket Ricotta and Calabro Hand-Dipped Ricotta are my go-to brands.

Macaroons:

• 3 large egg whites, at room temperature

• Pinch salt

• ½ cup sugar

• ¼ teaspoon almond extract

• 6 tablespoons finely ground toasted almonds (see Note)

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

• 3 tablespoons sifted all-purpose flour

Filling:

• ¾ pound whole-milk ricotta

• 3 tablespoons sugar

• 1 teaspoon brandy

• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1/3 cup heavy cream, whipped to firm peaks

• ¾ pound strawberries, hulled and thinly sliced

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 1 teaspoon brandy

• 1 tablespoon finely ground raw (unroasted) pistachios, for garnish

• Mint sprig and sliced strawberry, optional garnish

Make the macaroons: Preheat two ovens to 350°F or position two racks in the upper third and bottom third of one oven. Line two heavy rimmed baking sheets with parchment and trace three 7-1/2-inch circles on the paper in pencil, two circles on one sheet and one on the other. Flip the parchment over so the macaroon batter will not touch the pencil marks.

In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, whip the egg whites and salt on medium-high speed until foamy. Add the sugar gradually, then the almond extract. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then raise the speed to high and whip until the sugar has completely dissolved and the meringue stands in firm peaks when the whisk is lifted.

Remove the bowl from the mixer. Gently fold in the almonds, then the butter, then the flour.

Divide the mixture evenly among the traced circles and spread into evenly thick 7-1/2-inch rounds. Bake until golden-brown and no longer sticky to the touch, 18 to 20 minutes. If you are using one oven, shift the position of the baking sheets halfway through to insure even baking.

Remove the baking sheets from the oven and lift the parchment sheets onto a cooling rack. When the macaroons are completely cool, carefully peel away the parchment. Don’t worry if they stick a little bit.

Make the filling: In a food processor, blend the ricotta, sugar, brandy and vanilla until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and gently fold in the whipped cream.

In a bowl, combine the strawberries, sugar and brandy. Toss gently and let stand 5 minutes.

Place one macaroon on a cake stand or platter that will fit in the refrigerator. Top with one-third of the ricotta filling, spreading it evenly to the edges. Arrange half of the berries in an even layer on top of the ricotta. Top with another macaroon and half of the remaining ricotta filling, spreading it to the edges. Top the ricotta with the remaining berries in an even layer, then place the third macaroon on top. Spread the remaining ricotta filling on top of the macaroon, then cover with a cake dome and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 1 day.

Just before serving, garnish the top with the ground pistachios and, if desired, with a mint sprig and sliced strawberry.

NOTE: Toast whole raw almonds in a 325°F oven until golden inside, about 25 minutes. Let cool, then grind fine in a nut grinder or food processor.

Serves 8 to 12