Doug and I celebrated a recent wedding anniversary with a brief getaway to California’s Anderson Valley and the delightful Boonville Hotel. The hotel’s chef, Perry Hoffman, is the grandson of Sally Schmitt, the founding chef of The French Laundry. Hoffman grew up in that legendary Napa Valley kitchen, but he now has his own place and his own style and it’s right up my alley. I savored every bite of our height-of-spring dinner, but of course the two cheesiest dishes made the biggest impression. If you’re the chef on Mother’s Day, consider adding one or both to the menu.

You hardly need a recipe for either of these dishes, so I’ll just walk you through them.

Radish Carpaccio

Ingredients: radishes, fresh cheese, fresh herbs (mint, chives and/or dill), lemon zest, pink peppercorns

One of several dishes served together to launch the meal, Hoffman’s radish carpaccio featured Laychee, the fresh cheese made at the neighboring Pennyroyal Farm. Any fresh, spreadable cheese, ricotta or labneh would work.

Slice the radishes as thinly as possible. ( I used a V-slicer). Salt them lightly about 5 minutes ahead so they wilt slightly, then arrange them on top of the cheese. Scatter the herbs around. Add a whisper of grated lemon zest (Meyer or Eureka) and a pinch of peppercorns. Top with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil (my add). Serve with crostini or toasted pumpernickel.

Spring Greens with Boont Corners and Whole Grain Mustard Vinaigrette

Boont Corners is the aged goat cheese from Pennyroyal Farms. I adore this cheese and its slightly older sibling, Boont Corners Vintage, but it had never occurred to me to grate it with a Microplane and shower it generously on a green salad. Fantastic. Aged goat cheese has a sweetness that’s totally different from Parmigiano Reggiano (cow’s milk) or pecorino romano (sheep’s milk).

May is American Cheese Month, so consider replacing your usual Italian grating cheese with a domestic alternative. You may be amazed what a firm goat cheese like Andante Dairy’s Tomme Dolce, Goat Lady Providence or Lively Run Goat Dairy’s Finger Lakes Gold Reserve will do for a salad. Grated fine, it melts in your mouth and adds a creaminess that complements sturdy greens like frisée, escarole and romaine. These cheeses are costly but you don’t need much to make a thick snow flurry.

Whole-Grain Mustard Vinaigrette

• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons finely minced shallot

• 1-1/2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

• ½ teaspoon Vietnamese fish sauce

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, mustard and fish sauce. Let stand 30 minutes to allow the shallot to soften. Whisk in the olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Adjust the vinegar/oil balance to your taste.

Makes 1/3 cup, enough for 4 servings