Just about any sheep’s milk cheese would be a compatible partner for these seasoned olives. Try pecorino toscano, France’s Abbaye de Belloc, Carr Valley Marisa from Wisconsin or a Spanish Manchego. Aged goat cheeses, such as Dutch goat Gouda or Spanish Garrotxa, would work, too. The olives improve if made a day ahead. Let stand at room temperature, covered, and rewarm gently before serving with cocktails or the evening’s first glass of wine. Adapted from The Cheese Course.

•  1 cup unpitted green olives, such as Picholine or Lucques
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 bay leaves, coarsely broken
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon fennel seed, coarsely crushed in a mortar or spice grinder
• 1 dried red chile pepper
• 1/2 pound sheep’s milk cheese

 With the side of a cleaver or large knife, gently smack the green olives to crack them; don’t pound too hard or you will smash them.

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over moderate heat. Add the bay leaves, oregano and fennel seed. Break the chili pepper in half and sprinkle some or all of the seeds into the skillet; add the chili pods to the skillet, too. Cook the seasonings briefly to release their fragrance, then add the olives. Cook, stirring, into the olives are hot throughout, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let stand until they are just warm.

Trim the cheese of any rind and cut into thin slices or small cubes. Put the cheese on one end of a serving platter and spoon the olives, with their seasonings, alongside.

 Serves 6