In the Napa Valley, where we are sheltering in place, caterers are delivering cassoulet to people with deep pockets. The rest of us are plundering our pantries, gardens and freezers. Frankly, I’ve always enjoyed the challenge of making do in the kitchen. What tasty thing can I concoct from the bits and pieces? Being resourceful feels good, especially now. With my own hands, I can feed my household. I remember an elderly Italian friend who lived through the Second World War telling me that the rural people were better off than the city folks because the people in the countryside knew how to forage. Feeding yourself is a basic life skill, and this crisis is revealing that a lot of people can’t.
Kitchen staple: Barrel aged Greek feta
It’s likely you have all the ingredients for this Greek pasta frittata on hand. If not, substitute what you do have. The original recipe calls for egg noodles, but I use bucatini. Even a short pasta like penne would be fine. I have only made the dish with feta but use whatever cheese you have. Herbs are optional. Olive oil instead of butter? Sure. You can even make the dish with leftover spaghetti in tomato sauce. I learned that from Rosetta Costantino, with whom I collaborated on My Calabria. We had to delete the recipe from that book for space reasons, but I love it and include it below.
Feta and Pasta Frittata
Adapted from Vefa’s Kitchen by Vefa Alexiadou (Phaedon Press, 2009). Vefa Alexiadou is Greece’s Julia Child—a beloved television personality and cookbook author. She recently turned 87. I hope she knows how much comfort and sustenance her simple frittata recipe is providing right now. Toss a salad and dinner is done.
5 ounces long dried pasta, such as bucatini
Olive oil
6 large eggs
9 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives or other herbs, optional
Freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup unsalted butter, preferably clarified, or ghee
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and boil until just al dente, about 10 minutes for bucatini. Drain, transfer to a bowl and drizzle with just enough oil to keep the noodles from sticking. Let cool slightly.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs well. Add the pasta, cheese, herbs (if using) and pepper.
Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add half the butter. When it melts and sizzles, add the egg /pasta mixture, spreading it evenly. Cook, adjusting the heat to prevent burning on the bottom, until the mixture is almost firm on top, 5 to 6 minutes. Invert onto a large plate. Add the remaining butter to the skillet. When it melts, slide the frittata back into the skillet and cook on the second side until crisp, about another 5 minutes.
Slide the frittata onto a cutting board and let cool for a few minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm.
Serves 4
Frittata with Leftover Spaghetti
Cooking teacher Rosetta Costantino and her mother, Maria Dito, taught me this dish when we were testing recipes for My Calabria, a book about the food of their homeland. Whenever they have leftover cooked spaghetti, they repurpose it in a frittata, the spaghetti strands making graceful swirls on the surface. Add chopped ham, prosciutto or mozzarella, if you like.
6 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons finely chopped basil or parsley
2 tablespoons freshly grated pecorino cheese
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
About 1 pound of cold cooked spaghetti in tomato sauce (from 4 ounces of dried pasta)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Preheat the broiler.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, herbs, cheese, salt and several grinds of black pepper. Stir in the leftover spaghetti.
Heat the olive oil over moderate heat in a 10-inch nonstick skillet. Add the egg mixture and distribute it evenly. Cook until the frittata has begun to firm and brown on the bottom, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the middle rack of the oven and broil until the top of the frittata is firm, golden and puffy. If you’re not sure that it is fully cooked, make a small slit on the surface with a paring knife and look for runny egg.
Slide the frittata onto a cutting board and let cool for a few minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm.
Serves 6