I’m pretty sure that most mascarpone sold in this country ends up in tiramisu. Not a bad fate, but mascarpone can do more than that. If you’ve never made mascarpone ice cream, go dust off your ice cream machine. Memorial Day weekend is imminent, and no matter what you put on the grill, this strawberry mascarpone ice cream sundae will be what you remember.
Mascarpone gives ice cream a hint of cheesecake flavor. If you want it tangier, substitute crème fraîche. Both products rely primarily on cream, but crème fraîche is cultured, while mascarpone is thickened with an acid, usually citric acid.
Making mascarpone sounds simple but isn’t, and creameries hold their methods close. “I think mascarpone and nuclear warheads are two of the most coveted secrets in the world,” said George Crave of Wisconsin’s Crave Brothers, when we spoke about his award-winning mascarpone several years ago.
BelGioioso, also in Wisconsin, is this country’s largest mascarpone producer by far, but Crave Brothers, Vermont Creamery and Calabro (in Connecticut) make expert versions as well. Hard to believe that nobody produced it in the U.S. until 1990, but BelGioioso debuted its product that year and claims it was first.
The mascarpone ingredient list is short: typically cream, sometimes milk, sometimes salt, almost always citric acid. Vermont Creamery’s version includes glucono delta-lactone. I had to Google that. It’s a natural acidifier derived from glucose and it replaces the citric acid. It also turns up in silken tofu, cured meats, baked goods and skin-care products. Mascarpone facial, anyone?
Strawberry Mascarpone Ice Cream Sundae
The luscious ice cream is best the day it is made. Be sure to soften it a bit before serving if it has gotten rock-hard in the freezer. Adapted from San Francisco by Janet Fletcher (Oxmoor House).
Ice cream:
1 cup heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
1 cup half-and-half
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
6 large egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
Pinch sea salt
1 cup mascarpone or crème fraîche
Sauce:
2 cups strawberries, hulled and coarsely chopped
7 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ cup sliced almonds
2 cups strawberries, hulled and sliced
Make the ice cream: Put the cream and half-and-half in a small saucepan. With the tip of a knife, scrape the vanilla seeds into the mixture, then add the pod. Bring to a simmer, then cover, remove from the heat and let steep for 15 minutes.
In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and salt until pale and thick. Whisk in the cream mixture, including the vanilla pod. Return to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the mixture reaches 178°F on an instant-read thermometer. It will visibly thicken. Do not allow it to boil or it will curdle.
Remove from the heat and continue stirring the custard for about 1 minute to cool quickly. Let cool for 15 minutes, then whisk in the mascarpone. Strain to remove the vanilla pod, then refrigerate the custard until thoroughly chilled. Freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions. Transfer to a lidded container and place in the freezer for about 1 hour to firm.
Make the sauce: Put the chopped berries, sugar and lemon juice in a bowl and stir to mix. Let stand for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Transfer to a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring, over medium heat. Cook at a gentle simmer for 5 minutes, then let cool. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and toast until lightly browned and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool.
To assemble the sundae, put a scoop of ice cream in each of 6 sundae glasses. Top with a few of the sliced strawberries and 2 tablespoons of the strawberry sauce. Repeat the layers. Top with toasted almonds and serve immediately.
Serves 6