Which cheeses broke away from the pack at retail counters this year? I asked a few of the nation’s influential mongers what generated the most buzz in their store, and to guess—if they could—why those cheeses resonated. Some of their choices are newbies, some are classics, and a few I haven’t tried yet. If you want a cheese “bucket list” for 2023, this could be it. How fun, after the long pandemic standstill, to have some new cheeses to try.
The descriptions of each cheese are supplied by the monger who recommended it.
Sarah Simms, Lady & Larder, Los Angeles
Whitney, Jasper Hill Farm,Vermont, Cow
Whitney was for sure a breakout star given its big American Cheese Society win. Customers love winners, and Jasper Hill is such a trusted maker in our American cheese community. Also notable: Queen Anne's Lace (pictured above) from Tulip Tree—just a stunner of a cheese, super decadent and delicate. It almost feels like dessert.
Louise Converse, Artisan Cheese Co, Sarasota, FL
Queen Anne’s Lace, Tulip Tree Creamery, Indiana, Cow
We have been big supporters of Tulip Tree for years now, but lately we have been loving Queen Anne’s Lace, a Geotrichum-rinded square. We love the gorgeous cream line, the kind you want to run your finger through when no one is looking. It’s a beauty with delicate yeasty and floral notes.
Pascualino, Finca Pascualete, Spain, Raw Sheep
I’m personally in love with it. It has a cement-colored rind and a beautiful firm blonde paste that expresses notes of hay, wild strawberries and honey-laced cream.
Wrångebäck, Almnäs Bruk, Sweden, Raw Cow
The last few wheels have been stellar. It has a deep, dense, bone-brothy character at first, then a hint of freshly mowed grass and toffee.
Vince Maniaci, The Cheese Iron, Scarborough, ME
Sabauda, Caseificio Persia, Italy, Raw Cow
Handmade at a small creamery in Piemonte. The owners are a young couple with a unique approach to cheesemaking. Sabauda is soaked in balsamic vinegar, which gives the briny, meaty cheese a delightful grapy finish.
Melinda Mae, Mystic Cheese, Connecticut, Cow
A pristine rind and rich supple interior give way to fresh cream, mushroom and pistachio. Mystic Cheese makes selling cheese very easy.
Raymond Hook, Capella Cheese, Atlanta
L’Etivaz 2020, Alp Tompey, Switzerland, Raw Cow
Customers love the notes of toasted grain, the depth of flavor and the lingering finish. It is a table cheese that can also be used in recipes and fondue.
Green Hill, Sweet Grass Dairy, Georgia, Cow
We age our Green Hills for about a month in our 95% humidity room. They get creamy while retaining their white bloom. People like them young but love them when they fully soften.
Tomme aux Fleurs, Germany and France, Cow
Made in Germany and aged in France by Rodolph Le Meunier, the cheese is covered in petals from six flowers. The paste is deep and rich. We have sold so much of this cheese since we opened.
Theresa Cavazos, Providore Fine Foods, Portland, OR
Reserve, Daniel’s Artisan, Washington, Cow
Daniel Wavrin is the head cheesemaker of Washington’s Ferndale Creamery and has his own project called Daniel’s Artisan. His newest cheese, Reserve, won a Good Food Award this year. This farmstead cheese is a hybrid between a Dutch and Italian style. Aged for two years, it has a buttery, tangy, sweet character and lots of tyrosine crystals.
Truffle Raclette, JUMI, Switzerland, Raw Cow
We’ve adored Jumi’s cheeses for years and they keep creating unique ones. This raclette has huge flakes of Italian black truffles, no truffle oil or essence.
Sherry Gray, Jasper Hill Farm, Vermont, Cow
It is rare to find an ash-ripened cheese made with cow’s milk, and Jasper Hill really nailed it. Sherry Gray is a double cream, which makes it quite decadent, and the ash rind gives it stunning visual appeal.
Zach Berg, Mongers’ Provisions, Berkeley, MI
Comté from Essex St. Cheese, France (Jura), Raw Cow
I was lucky enough to go to the Jura this summer and came back inspired.
Morbier, France (Jura), Cow
Our small French supplier has been selecting fantastic wheels for us.
4 Alarm Cheddar from Milton Creamery, Iowa, Cow
The 4 Alarm Cheddar is in our grilled Flaming Fig sandwich. People love its heat when paired with capicola and fig jam.