Is it cheese…or is it cake? Or is it cheesecake? Baked lemon ricotta is a modern creation produced by a small family enterprise in Puglia, but there’s plenty of tradition behind it. In Sicily and Puglia, shepherds long ago figured out that they could bake their ricotta in their wood-burning oven and extend its lifespan. Thirty-five years ago, the Donvito family took the practice in a new direction, creating a line of sweet, sliceable baked ricottas flavored with lemon, coffee, cocoa and pistachio. The lemon version—the bestseller by far—turns up at American cheese counters occasionally and I’ve been eyeing it, but not trying it, for years.

Angela and Vincenzo Donvito, who are siblings, now run Sapori dell’Antica Murgia the business their father started in 1987. They have only 10 employees but ship their products all over the world. They start with ricotta made from cow and water buffalo milk, then add sugar, cream, potato starch and flavorings. In the lemon version, turmeric deepens the color. The label also lists carrageenan (a thickener and emulsifier) and sorbic acid (a preservative). No wonder a slice lasted for weeks in my fridge.

The product’s label suggests warming it before serving, and I took that advice. The texture is moist, delicate and smooth, more like a baked custard than a dense, creamy cheesecake. The flavor is sweet (too sweet for me, but I’m a lightweight) and intensely lemony. For an easy summer dessert, pair it with raspberries or figs. Or dress it up with a raspberry, strawberry or blueberry sauce. Giuseppe Caponetti, an employee who spoke with me by phone, says Italians enjoy it for breakfast.

Look for Sapori dell’Antica Murgia Dolce Ricotta Limone at these stores. Trader Joe’s also carries this product during the holidays under its own label. You may also find it under the Isola brand.