Leave it to John McConnell, one of my favorite Napa Valley chefs, to dream up a new take on cacio e pepe. How did grated pecorino plus black pepper become America’s favorite flavor? It’s everywhere. Cacio e pepe potato chips. Cacio e pepe pizza. Cacio e pepe pasta sauce in a jar. (No, thanks.) McConnell anticipated this trend with his cacio e pepe croutons, which perk up the Caesar he serves at the Bruschetteria food truck in St. Helena. His isn’t a classic Caesar but a variation on the theme, with radicchio and radishes and lots of cheese shaved on top.
Crostini with Goat Cheese, Carrots and Sukkah
McConnell’s recipe for Mixed Chicory Caesar with Cacio e Pepe Croutons is just one of many tantalizing garden-driven recipes in GATHER: Casual Cooking from Wine Country Gardens, my latest cookbook just released by Cameron + Company. GATHER was published last year (by Jennifer Barry Design Books) but initially sold only at the featured wineries. Now, in this new edition, it’s available to all. The only change is the cover.
Inside this lavishly photographed book (thank you, Meg Smith), you’ll find features on thirteen stunning edible gardens at Northern California wineries, plus recipes for dishes that the vintners and winery chefs make with all that gorgeous produce they grow.
Caramelized Spring Onion Dip with Crudités
Thanks to these chefs, GATHER has two of the best-ever uses for fresh goat cheese: a caramelized spring onion dip from the chef at the Prisoner Wine Company and the crostini with goat cheese, sautéed carrots and dukkah from the chef at Cakebread Cellars. Don’t make me choose.
Mixed Chicory Caesar with “Cacio e Pepe” Croutons
Inspired by spaghetti cacio e pepe, McConnell got the idea to toss hot toasted croutons with grated cheese and black pepper. The cheese melts on contact. Instead of slicing the baguette for the croutons, he tears it into rough chunks. It’s more rustic and creates more crevices to trap the seasonings. The croutons are best warm, so if you have made them ahead, reheat them before adding them to the salad. Leftover dressing is great with steamed artichokes, cauliflower, or other steamed vegetables. McConnell leaves anchovies out of the dressing because he is cooking for a broad audience at Bruschetteria, the Clif Family Winery’s food truck, but I add one or two fillets, minced to a paste. From GATHER: Casual Cooking from Wine Country Gardens by Janet Fletcher (Abrams).
Dressing:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1-1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1-1/2 teaspoons Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
“Cacio e Pepe” croutons:
½ sourdough baguette, torn into rough bite-size pieces
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
¼ cup freshly grated pecorino romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salad:
3 quarts torn mixed chicories, such as radicchio, escarole and frisée, plus arugula
1 cup thinly sliced radishes, including small daikon and watermelon radishes if available
Chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano for shaving
Make the dressing: In a bowl, whisk together all the dressing ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Make the croutons: Preheat the oven to 350°F with convection fan or 375°F with no fan. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. In a bowl, toss the torn croutons with the olive oil and pepper, then arrange them on the baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until they are lightly browned in spots, about 8 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a bowl and, while they are hot, toss them with the grated cheese.
Toss the chicories, arugula and radishes with enough of the dressing to coat lightly. Arrange attractively on a serving platter, then scatter the croutons on top. Using a vegetable peeler, shave as much cheese as you like over the top. Serve immediately.
Serves 6