How did an American end up running a legendary British cheese retailer and exporter? Neal’s Yard Dairy selects, matures and sells some of the finest British and Irish cheeses, both internationally and in its own four London shops. Over four decades, founder Randolph Hodgson elevated the profile of these distinctive cheeses and helped many traditional cheesemakers survive. With Hodgson’s retirement, this esteemed British firm is now under the direction of David Lockwood (above), an American.
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A Planet Cheese reader asked me recently about ammoniated cheese. What causes that unwelcome smell and can anything be done about it? I call it the death rattle because it’s usually a sign that the cheese is not long for this world. Most cheeses give us clues when they’re flawed or heading south; learning to recognize those sensory signals can avert a purchase you may regret. So in this journey to the dark side, let’s take a look at some not-so-nice cheeses and analyze what may have gone wrong.
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