I’ve long thought of Grana Padano as the thrifty person’s grating cheese, lacking the stature or complexity of Parmigiano Reggiano. Then a cheese colleague told me he thought Grana Padano deserves more love than it gets. “I use it in any situation where most people would use Parmigiano Reggiano,” said Brian Keyser, owner of Casellula Cheese & Wine Café in New York City. “It’s great with just about any crisp, dry white wine.”