I’ve been enchanted by this dramatic spring appetizer forever, since first encountering it at a Persian restaurant in Berkeley. The restaurant closed eons ago but the memory lingers. A platter of sabzi khordan --which translates to “herbs for eating”—is omnipresent at Persian meals, I have learned, and it’s more about the herbs than the feta. But this is Planet Cheese, so there’s feta at the center of my sabzi khordan. A block of feta would be more traditional, but whipped feta spreads better. And that’s the idea: You take a piece of flatbread, slather it with feta, tuck in something crunchy like toasted walnuts and then a soft handful of mixed herbs. It’s magical.
Louisa Shafia, author of The New Persian Kitchen, is the daughter of an Iranian immigrant who came to the U.S. for his medical internship. Shafia had only sporadic exposure to Persian food as a child--her mother is American—but as a young adult she began to take interest. Sabzi khordan is the dish that launched her Persian culinary journey. Today she teaches Persian cooking and organizes events that celebrate Persian culture.
“One of the fun things about this dish is that you can make it your own,” says Shafia. “I put the basics, of course—different herbs, radishes, walnuts, hopefully freshly made flatbread and feta. But I love to go to farmers markets and see what’s in season: chive blossoms, cherry tomatoes, any kind of spring onion.”
I really should have stuffed more herbs on my platter (above). That’s the Iranian way. Americans are accustomed to thinking of herbs as something you chop and add by the tablespoon, but Iranians view fresh herbs almost like salad greens.
Photo: Sara Remington
“I was doing a Persian dinner at a pop-up in New York City, and they asked how much of the herbs to buy,” recalls Shafia, who lives in Nashville. “I said ten bunches of each, and they refused to believe me.”
Soft herbs such as basil, cilantro, mint, tarragon, dill and parsley are all appropriate. Watercress, arugula and purslane would not be wrong. Although the dish says “spring” to me because of the herbs and radishes, it’s served year-round. In summer, watermelon turns up on the platter and, in season, fresh grapes and figs.
I don’t think Persians ever whip the feta but see what you think. I put a crumbled block in a food processor with a few thin slices of garlic and enough extra virgin olive oil to make it creamy—maybe a tablespoon of oil for 12 ounces of cheese.
A floppy flatbread that folds easily around the ingredients is essential. You are making a wrap. Barbari bread is traditional and Middle Eastern markets tend to have it. Lavash is an alternative. Warmed pita is the fallback position.
Sabzi khordan is meant to be shared, like most Persian dishes, and it’s definitely finger food. Put the cutlery down.
“I always serve this dish when I entertain,” says Shafia. “It’s a beautiful introduction to the cuisine, but I have to explain it to people. You just take a little bit of each thing, tear off a piece of bread and make a rustic sandwich.”
Like me, Shafia takes liberties with the feta. Just before serving the dish, she tops the cheese with a spiced oil. “It transforms it,” says Shafia. Here’s her method, adaped from The New Persian Kitchen:
For 8 ounces of feta
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt
Grind the spices coarsely, if desired. Heat a small skillet over high heat. Add the coriander, cumin and caraway seeds, and shake the pan continuously until the spices start to release their aroma, about 2 minutes. Immediately transfer to a bowl and pour in the olive oil. Add a pinch of coarse salt. (Not sure why—feta is plenty salty.) Swirl the spices in the oil and steep for a few minutes. Pour the mixture over the feta.